Driving the Autobahn

Driving on the autobahn in Germany, Austria and Switzerland is fun, fast and at times frustrating when there’s a traffic jam. The autobahn is built for speed with smooth pavement and wide curves. If you are used to driving on the interstate and highways in the U.S., driving the autobahn is vastly different from driving in the U.S.

Know the differences between U.S. traffic laws and those in Europe. Traffic laws for European countries can easily be found on-line. Also, it’s important to know the rules (official and unofficial) of the different style of driving you’ll find when driving the autobahn. I found when talking to Europeans about driving, that unlike Americans, Europeans have an unwritten but strict driving code of behavior.

When driving the autobahn, Europeans expect that the fastest vehicles will drive in the far left lane. The left lane is only for overtaking or passing. The far right lane is for the slowest vehicles. It’s considered extremely rude to drive slow in a fast lane and hold up any cars. I also found Europeans and Germans in particular, are more aggressive drivers. If you are laid back, don’t stay alert and don’t pay attention to your driving, the road and those driving around you – you may have problems. Traffic in Europe is high volume and fast paced, but it is more civilized with well-trained, excellent drivers, who are confident and know what they are doing. They assume you will drive the same way they do – with speed and skill. Overall, I think that driving in Europe is safer, even at the faster and more aggressive pace. The following guide includes things I found essential for driving on the autobahn.

No passing on the right

The first thing any driver needs to know about the rules for driving the autobahn is that passing on the right is illegal and drivers take this seriously. You must move into a left lane in order to pass.

Double check your side-view mirror before moving into the left lane
Always check your rear and left side-view mirror before moving to the left land. This is critical on sections of the autobahn with no speed limit. Even if you are doing the “recommended” speed of 130 km/h (81 mph), you may feel like you are standing still when suddenly another car flies by. Make sure you check your mirrors before changing lanes.

Slower traffic stays to the right.

Whenever possible, stay in the middle lane at a steady speed (if on a 3-lane section of the autobahn) or the right lane (2-lane sections) if driving slower than the rest of the traffic. Move back to the right as soon as possible after passing slower vehicles. If you are in the left lane and see a vehicle coming up from behind, signal and move over to the right – quickly. Speeding cars can suddenly appear out of nowhere, with headlights flashing at speeds exceeding 100 mph in unrestricted speed areas. Drivers flashing headlights is common and a perfectly acceptable way to let someone going slower know you’re coming up from behind. If you see flashing lights, just move over to the right as quickly as possible.

Always use your turn signals
Drivers almost always use the turn signal to indicate a lane change. Do the same.

Follow the speed limit

Contrary to popular myth, there are speed limits on the autobahn. While there are still a few stretches where it is legal to drive at top speed however, those sections are limited. The autobahn often has speed limits in sections with consistently heavy traffic, dangerous curves, poor weather, at entrances/exits, and near towns and cities. When you get further away from these areas the speed limit restrictions are lifted.

The sign that indicates an area with unrestricted speed is gray with diagonal lines. This sign lets you know you can go as fast as traffic (or your car) allows. Occasionally, the signs include a number painted behind the lines; 130, for example, indicates the end of the 130-kilometer-per-hour speed restriction. Even in unlimited-speed sections, the autobahn has a recommended speed of 130 kilometers per hour (or 81 mph).

Driving the Autobahn - Autobahn sign
Autobahn Unrestricted Speed Sign
Driving the Autobahn - Autobahn sign
Autobahn Unrestricted Speed Sign
Driving the autobahn - Autobahn Sign
Autobahn Legal Speed Limit Sign

The speed limit sign for restricted speeds is a black number on a round white sign outlined in red. Dynamic or changeable overhead electronic signs may also show the current speed limit and warnings based on traffic flow etc. Some sections have limits of 120 km/h (75 mph), 110 km/h (68 mph) or lower, especially in urban areas. Speed limit signs on the autobahn are spaced farther apart than those on the interstate in the U.S. Make sure you always know what the speed limit is even if you don’t see a sign.

In Europe, you rarely see warnings like “reduced speed ahead.” One minute you are driving 130 km/h, and suddenly you see a 110 speed limit sign. You are expected to pay attention to the posted limits and slow down. The speed limit signs are not just “guidelines”. From my experience, almost every vehicle immediately slows down when the sped limit changes.

AutobahnConstruction delays and traffic jams are also part of driving on the autobahn. At construction zones or near exits, you will see a series of speed limit signs, usually starting with 100, (62 mph) then another sign with 80 (50 mph), then another with 60 (35 mph). You can’t resume speed until you see an end-of-speed-limit sign or a new posted speed. Some GPS units, can identify traffic problems and route you around them.

Don’t Take Aggressive Driving Personally

Drivers in Europe can be – well, actually most are – aggressive. They honk, they flash headlights and they drive fast. They pass and suddenly cut you off. You are not given a wide berth when passing like what is typical in the United States. Don’t take it personally – it’s just the way they drive. Learn to go with the flow. You are not in Kansas anymore or anywhere else in the U.S.

Take a Break

Driving the autobahn takes concentration, can be stressful and is tiring if you are not used to the intensity of driving it. When you need to, take a break and relax a bit. The autobahn has rest stops (Raststätten) about every 35-40 miles with gas stations, restaurants (some are very good), shops, picnic tables and toilets or WC (with an entrance fee – keep change handy). There are also smaller stops along the way that are simply parking lots or areas with picnic tables, a WC and parking. Watch out for “Autohof“, larger service stations located near the Autobahn, but not directly connected to it.

Tolls on the Autobahn

Austria and Switzerland charge drivers a toll for using their autobahn. Both countries use autobahn stickers and require display of the sticker on the windshield – driver’s side.

Switzerland uses an annual fee for driving on the autobahn. I purchased the sticker at the border crossing (after leaving France), where I was also able to change our Euros to Swiss Francs. The sticker can also be purchased at post offices, petrol stations, garages, touring club offices (TCS) and Customs. The price for the sticker during our trip was 40 francs. See The Swiss Motorways for more information on tolls in Switzerland, as well as general information about the autobahn in Switzerland.

Austria also requires a sticker for driving on the autobahn, but is available for shorter lengths of time – 10-day, 2-month etc. with the ten-day toll sticker you can use Austrian toll roads for ten consecutive calendar days, with the punched day counting as the first calendar day of this ten-day period. Austrian toll stickers are available at most petrol stations, tobacconists and automobile clubs, as well as at all ASFINAG toll stations. See ASFINAG for more information about tolls in Austria.

There is a heavy fine in both countries if you do not buy the sticker. You can avoid the fee if you stay off of the autobahn in these countries, but it is not easy to do.

I hope this guide helps when driving on the autobahn. Have fun and happy driving!

Window Shopping In Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Even when the shops were closed on Sunday, window shopping in Rothenburg ob der Tauber was great!  Wandering through cobblestone streets, taking in the beauty of the centuries old buildings and fountains was fun and relaxing, especially without the weekday crowds from tour buses. There are so many beautiful and fun shops from toy stores with windows filled with adorable teddy bears – my favorite was a teddy bear scene from Repunzel – to specialty foods, christmas decorations and even suits or armor. Even the Euro Store, similar to the Dollar Store in the US provided some great finds like fountain pens and chocolate bars. These are some of my favorite windows.

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Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Stepping Back In Time

After visiting the BMW Museum and Welt yesterday, we headed to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a medieval town located in the State of Bavaria along the Tauber River. It is a walled town dating back to 1200. Matt told me Rothenburg ob der Tauber was spared from destruction during WWII due to its’ historical significance. The name of the city means “red fortress above the Tauber”.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is filled with half timber buildings, winding cobblestone lanes, flower boxes, beautiful signs, a large square, fountains, churches and hundreds of shops. Visiting Rothenburg is like stepping back In time, not only due to the setting and architecture, but also because it is so relaxing and peaceful – especially after all of the tour buses leave.

When we arrived at the Hotel Markstrum, the owner was waiting for us on the front step. We were running about 3-4 hours late and she was worried that something had happened to us. She said she could relax now that we had arrived. What a welcoming reception! We were overdue because of a complete closure of 3 lanes of the A8 motorway. Half way between Munich and Stuttgart all of the traffic was routed off of the highway and detoured through country roads for a few miles before returning to the A8. We heard that eventually the traffic was at a stand still back to Munich. It was one of the worst traffic jams Matt and I had ever seen.

Located next to the Markus Tower, Hotel Markstrum is over 500 years old and has been in the Berger family for four generations. It is beautiful hotel with original architecture and furnished with German antiques. Each room is individually decorated with a separate theme – from simple to elegant. Ours was more toward the elegant side with a large sitting area and balcony overlooking a courtyard. After settling into our room we had dinner in the hotel dining room – a traditional German meal of beef in a cream sauce with pickles, spatzel, and a salad with sauerkraut. We arrived feeling pretty stressed, but soon felt relaxed and even decided to spend an extra day there. At this point we had already driven over 2400 kilometers and we were ready for a break.

The wall around the town is intact, with guard towers, steep staircases, and a well worn path that provides a great place for views of the colorful tile rooftops, family homes and church steeples.  Rothenburg is still a traditional community with homes, family shops and children playing in the streets. The farther you walk away from the center of town, the more you see the everyday life of the people who call the walled town home.

 

Sunday was the one full day we had in Rothenburg and many of the shops were closed, but the window shopping was great! However, the Christmas shop was open, and Matt was a good sport and extremely patient while I decided on which ornaments to buy. Forget about the fact I have more than enough for a 10 foot tree – there is always room for more. We also went to a print shop/gallery where the outgoing owner offer me a glass of sherry while we looked. She tried to talk Matt into one also, but he declined. This time Matt helped pick out prints and we ended up buying four scenes of the town.

This is the walled area of the town- walkway, stairs, tower, and views of the rooftops.

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The town square, details from shops, churches and the Hotel Markstrum.

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BMW Museum and Welt and the Olympic Park

Yesterday on the way to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany we stopped in Munich to visit the BMW Museum and Welt, and the Olympic Park. The BMW Museum and Welt  were fantastic! I had as much fun as Matt. If you love cars and especially BMWs,  you’ll love this place. The Welt is the ultimate BMW showroom. When we entered the parking garage there were several spaces with signs stating they were reserved for “BMW On Demand”. Each space had a new car parked in it. We later found out these are the cars being picked up by new owners. My next BMW is going to be picked up here…

The museum is bowl-shaped with architecture as interesting as the exhibits. While it appears closed and dark from the outside, the interior is bright and airy with a spiral walkway leading from top to bottom. Exhibits are located along the spiral.

BMW Museum

The exhibits cover the history of BMW from its beginnings as a manufacturer of aircraft engines to motorcycles, automobiles and futuristic prototypes.

 

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The design of the Welt is amazing and has the feeling of a giant wave. Constructed of glass and steel, it is open and airy with a huge showroom. All of the latest BMW models are on display with salesmen ready to answer questions. Up to 100 owners from around the world pick up their new BMWs there every day.  There are also several shops and cafes, and during our visit an indoor driving range was set up. While we were there I actually took more photos of the architecture than the cars…

BMW WeltBMW Welt

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This was Matt’s favorite model…

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And this is mine…

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Olympic Park

After seeing enough BMWs to last a life time, we walked on a sky bridge (over the motorway) to the Olympic Park, home of the 1972 Summer Olympics. This has to be one of the most beautiful parks I have ever see. It is filled with things to do from zip lines, to bungee jumping, soccer, swimming, boats and cafes.

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In my next post I’ll have photos of Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is a beautiful walled village in the State of Bavaria.

Fussen and St Wolfgang

As we leave Austria, here are a few parting shots of Fussen, Germany located in the State of Bavaria, Salzburg, and the Austrian village St. Wolfgang, located along the side of a Lake Wolfgang in the Alps not far from Salzburg.

These photos are from Fussen, Germany – I love the colorful buildings and the the fairy tale like Neuschwanstein Castle just outside of Fussen (also known as Mad King Ludwig’s Castle). We had one surprise though – the castle was almost entirely covered in scaffolding. This is the only view of it where most of it doesn’t show. The web site for the castle said nothing about the scaffolding, but then I guess not many people would be visiting it if it said be prepared not to see the castle due to construction…

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This is one of many windows in Salzburg filled with Mozart chocolates. It is impossible to visit Salzburg without eating and leaving with chocolate.

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We loved St. Wolfgang with it’s setting on the pristine lake surrounded by the peaks of the Alps. It’s a quaint village, population about 2800, that is a perfect place to spend an afternoon walking and exploring the shops and beautiful church. It is one of the most famous mountain villages in Austria

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Lake Wolfgang

The crystal clear water of Lake Wolfgang
The crystal clear water of Lake Wolfgang

A Key to the Castle – Staying In Schloss Haunsperg

We are staying at Schloss Haunsperg, a castle in the town of Hallein just 15 minutes outside of Salzburg. Built in the 14th century, the castle was originally owned by Count Haunsperg, and has been in the current owner’s family since the 1800’s. the castle is not only beautiful, but tranquil in its garden setting.

At breakfast this morning, the owner was telling me that the tower, while modified, was originally built during Roman times as a watch tower, and was also used as a resting point for travelers on a Roman road that went by here. There is also a small Baroque chapel, that seats about 25, and is used for weddings, baptisms, and family masses, one of which was held last night to celebrate a saint’s birthday. Another interesting bit of history is that the text to the “Blue Danube” waltz was written here.

When we arrived we were given a room key, which is also a key to the front door of the castle. The walls are ivy covered, with beautiful roses climbing up to the windows.

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Our room is on the 4th floor and is partially located in the tower. We have a huge bedroom and large sitting area. Beautiful antiques are used throughout the castle, and as Matt has mentioned, it looks like a museum. But it feels like anything but a museum. The owners are warm, welcoming and fun, making you feel at home immediately and urge you to explore the castle. These are our rooms.

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And details from around the castle.

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